‘Every Chef Ought to Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
A Unexpected Accolade
This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.
“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
The Character of Simplicity
The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
The Star Creation: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.
Rising Above the Stars
Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
A Ethos of Hospitality
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
The Story of Perseverance
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
An Achievement for the Culture
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.